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Vibrio vulnificus is a bacterium found in salt water, and
infections from it can lead to amputations and even death.
No doubt this organism receives a lot of attention in the
press when a someone becomes infected by it, making
some ask whether it’s even safe to touch salt water.
The good news is that millions of people are exposed to
this bacteria annually and do not become infected. The
average number of confirmed cases on the Gulf coast each
year, according to the Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention, is 40, with 35 requiring hospitalization and 12
resulting in death. Small numbers in comparison to the
total exposures but not much consolation to those that have
been infected.

Theories relating to increased pollution in the bays as
causes for the infections have been circulated but don’t hold
water. The organism is not related to pollution. It is naturally
occurring and particularly plentiful in the warm summertime
waters along the entire Gulf coast. Test a sample of salt
water for V. vulnificus and you will likely find it present.
The bacteria is more concentrated in places that receive
little tidal flow, such as shallow ponds and lakes connected
to a bay. The bacteria also likes brackish water, where salt
and fresh water mix. What it doesn’t survive in well is salty
water such as that in the Gulf, or bay areas that receive good
tidal flow. That’s not to say it will not be found in these
areas, it just won’t be as concentrated.

V. vulnificus not only enters the body through cuts or
punctures from infected surfaces, raw or inadequately
cooked seafood that it is present on can also cause a
problem. Even healthy people can suffer from
gastroenteritis if they eat seafood contaminated with this
organism. For those with liver disease, it is fatal 50% of the
time.

People in high risk groups, including the elderly, those with
impaired liver function, diabetes, or who use
immunosuppressive drugs or steroids, or who are on
chemo, are particularly susceptible to infection from v.
vulnificus. Since alcohol impairs the liver’s ability to fight
infection, that too should be considered a risk factor,
particularly if consumed while on the water.

The suggested approach to prevent an infection is to
generously clean any wound (A wound includes a rash or
blister, say from waders or shoes.) with hydrogen peroxide
and/or apply an anti-bacterial ointment, such as a triple
antibiotic cream. It’s a very good idea to have these two
items available while on the water so there is no delay in
treatment.

Once in the body and an infection takes hold, the organism
spreads very rapidly and can double in numbers in a matter
of every 20 to 30 minutes. Doctors advise seeking
immediate medical attention if symptoms of a spreading
infection such as expanding redness, fever and pain occur.
If you develop these symptoms that means not waiting until
morning to see if it gets better. That could be too late or at
least make the cure much more prolonged and painful.
The season for V. vulnificus infections begins in earnest
when bay waters start to warm. On the Gulf coast, this
begins in March and will usually peak by mid-October.
Anyone growing up on the Gulf coast probably remembers
being told that saltwater was good for healing open
wounds. Football practice always meant bloody knees and
elbows so it was a good reason to go swimming or
wadefishing at every opportunity. I don’t know if it made any
difference as far as healing went, but I sure wouldn’t try it
anymore.

For more information on V. vulnificus, or other members in
its nasty little family, including cholera, visit the Center for
Disease Control at http://www.cdc.gov

Gary Ralston is publisher of Gulf Coast Fisherman
magazine which has been published for saltwater
fishermen since 1976. For great articles and information
about fishing or travel destinations on the Gulf Coast visit
http://gulffishing.com

Fishing With Jigs

There seems to be one thing most anglers do that isn’t quite right. That’s how they fish a jig. Most fish it faster they they should. Jigging can produce a nice quanity of bass but it’s main goal is to produce quality bass.

In The Spring

Fish brush, lily pads that are just coming up, boat docks and rocks. Try fishing shallow water, it warms up fastest. Fish with a 1/2 ounce jig tipped with pork.

In The Summer

Now is when most anglers go to a faster moving lure, you should try jigging. Fish creek beds, channels, grass and lily pads.

In The Fall

Try fishing jigs around wood. Logs, stumps, boat docks and downed trees are good places to fish your jig this time of year. Also try the lily pads that are dying off.

In The Winter

Rivers are great for winter fishing. Try to find slow moving water in the 3 to 9 foot range. A heavier jigs like a 3/8 ounce tipped with pork works good. Deep water can find schools of bass in slow moving water.

Jigging can be one of the best bass producing methods if you fish it slow enough. Keep the jig in front of the fish, move it very slow and you’ll have good results if there are fish to be caught.

Charles E. White has fished for bass for almost 50 years. He has fished from
Florida to California and has caught more than 6,000 bass in his lifetime. His
biggest bass is 12 pounds 14 ounces.

Charles has owned two tackle stores in his lifetime and taught dozens of people to fish for bass.

He now resides in Ohio.
Charles is webmaster for: www.bassfishingweekly.com

Perhaps the most important piece of fly fishing gear you will need to choose is your fly fishing rod. Though fly fishing is a simple art, it is a precise one. When reading the riseform on a river trout, you will need a rod which you can depend on to cast a precise cast - not wide of your intended area, nor falling short. You will also need to know that when you get in deep to the mountain streams, your fly fishing gear will not fail you and break down at that critical moment.

If fly fishing is itself simple in practice (though not easy!), the world of fly fishing rods is not. Gone are the bamboo rods of your forebears. The technology in fly fishing rod engineering has exploded, and there are a plethora of choices to choose from.

Most rods today are made from graphite. Basically, you want a rod that will precisely cast, that controls your line once cast, and lands your fish - often, when the fish are lionhearted fighters, in tough water conditions. Given that, how to choose?

What are you fishing?

Top on the list is to know what type of fish you are looking for. A largemouth bass behaves differently in its pursuit of baitfish than does a brown trout. It also fights differently. What will hold up for a small brooky will not do well for a lunker on the line.

What water are you fishing?

Second, the water you fish will tell you a lot about the type of rod action you should be looking for. If you fish mostly smaller streams, and are in need of precise, gentler, shorter casts, you will want what’s known as a full flex rod. This type of action will also allow you to have a better feel for the fish on your line. As with walleye fishing with spinning reels, a light, sensitive feel will often better land the fish you seek.

On larger streams, or if you don’t want (or you’re budget won’t allow you) to have several different rods for different purposes, a mid-flex rod will provide adequate strength to fight tougher fish, or fish landed on tougher conditions. Because it is not a fast action or stiff rod, you will still have some sensitivity on the line, but you can cast farther and more precisely than with a full flex rod. This is the most popular type of fly fishing rod out there.

Finally, under heavier wind, on tougher waters, on bigger rivers (or ocean fishing areas), or with tougher, bigger fish, the “fast action” or stiffer rod is the way to go.

Paul Smith lives in the northwoods of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. He divides his time between his family, teaching the Japanese martial art of Aikido and building his outdoor gear website and its more freewheeling cousin, The Outblog

Nothing is better than to snap a photo of your big fish that you just caught.

You’ve spent the day out on the lake and then you feel a pull at the line. You finally pull that big one in and you decide to get a great snapshot of you holding the fish. Wait!

Make use of these valuable tips before you go. You want to make sure that the fish and you look exactly like those snaps in the magazines and on the Internet. How do you do it? It’s simple by following a few basic techniques.

One of the most effective tips for good fish picture taking is the use of a wide-angle lens. By using a wide-angle lens, the photographer can get closer to the subject which will be you and your fish. This way, the fish will look bigger. As well, make sure that the sun is behind the photographer.

And lastly, the fish photos look the best when taken when the fish is just out of the water. The wet look of the fish gives the fish sheen and enhances the color. Great! The perfect picture of you and your fish.

Catherine Kenyeres is a successful author and publisher for http://www.best-4u-fishing-equipment.com. Catherine has written numerous articles for the fishing enthusiast.

If you take your children fishing with you, they can enjoy something for the rest of their lives, as long as you make it pleasant for them.

If on the other hand, you yell, scream and get upset with them a lot, then they won’t enjoy it and neither will you. Make their fishing trips enjoyable and teach them responsibility at the same time.

Let them get their own rod and reel ready with your help. Let them pack it in the car, get their own tackle ready. The only thing you really want to watch is the hooks if they’re really young.

Of course, if they need help then you give it to them. What they learn now will be with them forever. It is said the first few years of their life builds their character forever.

Make their fishing experience pleasurable and they will always love to fish and love you for taking them.. It sure beats drugs!

Charles E. White has fished for almost 50 years for bass from California to Florida. In his lifetime, it is estimated that he has caught over 6,000 bass. His biggest bass is a 12 pound 14 ounce that hangs on his wall in his office.

Charles has fished with people who have never fished for bass before and taught them how to become successful anglers and also has fished with the Pros in Florida. His new website about fishing for bass is at:
http://www.bassfishingweekly.com

Fly fishing is very different than fishing with a lure or worm type baits. The fly fisherman uses a artificial fly consisting of bites of feathers, foam, hide, fur, yarn, and other materials to be tried on to a hook that make it appealing to the type of fish you are catching. Every fly fisherman has his own type of flies he like to use some purchase them and then some of us like to tie our own. Fly tying is more of an art with basic training which most people can learn over a short period of time.

Dry fly fishing is the best classic form of fishing. The artificial fly is cast so that it floats on the surface of the water. As the fly passes over the fish it will rise to the surface and strike or take the fly.

With the fly rod you will attempt to stop the fish from spitting out the fly and get it tired enough so you can land it in your net. With fly fishing you will see all the action as you cast the fly and play the fish for a strike. The fly is very visible on the surface to the fish. You will see the fish take the fly on the surface however trout and other fish tend to feed under water so if you see the fish rising to the surface it is time to use a dry fly.

Wet flies will sink under the surface of the water an may be passed in front of the fish there bye causing the fish too strike at the fly,

Nymph fishing is very popular after the flies lay eggs on lakes or in streams and they hatch out as nymphs. As the nymphs make their way to the surface the fish will take them. When they get to the surface they will hatch into a flies.

When nymph fishing the imitation nymphs you us will be weighted to stay below the surface of the water. This will be far more of a challenge for you as the action all take place under the surface of the water and you will not be able to see if a fish is about to strike.

Most fish can be caught on a fly but the most common are trout, salmon, chars, and most game fish. In most areas the trout are the most popular and you will find them feeding mostly on small insects in shallow water. If you live on the coast you find salmon fishing with a fly rod a very rewarding challenge. Hooking a 30 or 40 pound salmon on a fly rod will give you a work out running up and down the beach trying to play the fish out to land it .

The fly fishing sport has gained ever increasing popularity over the years. Most will agree it just not about catching the fish but in the delivery of the fly and the skill and knowledge in the pursuit.

Some fly fisherman regard fly fishing as the holy grail of fishing. It is more relaxing and some say a better past time than golf. The sport of fly fishing see people from all walks of life. Some say it is more environmentally friends than the other type of fishing because it does less harm to the fish then other styles of fishing.

The art of fly fishing will get in to your blood and you will peruse the quite of the streams or the solitude of the ocean beaches to capture you prey. Most anglers will catch and release if they are fly fishing.

Sammy Salmon has been having fun fishing for years and wants to share all his knowledge with you so be sure to visit him at Fishing-For-Fun

One of the most fulfilling activities for many people is spring crappie fishing. This is the time of year that my son has a huge interest in going fishing with Dad. Cabin fever has been prevalent for several months and as the ice lifts off the local waters and temperatures start to rise, the ever-so-active crappie nears spawning time. As spring draws near crappie move toward their spawning areas. If you are a fisherman who enjoys crappie fishing and has chased them before, you know that springtime offers up the hottest crappie fishing of the year.

Most anglers enjoy spring crappie because they tend to migrate to shallower water and this alone cuts down on your search time. Instead of holding on hidden cover, crappie will tend to move to shallow treetops and stump fields, riprap banks and docks, many of which are visible, often in the backs of creeks or coves and usually fairly close to a lake’s banks. Besides the fact that they are shallow, spring crappie tend to stack up, so where you hook into one big fish, the chances are extremely good that you are going to catch a bunch of them. Overall, finding crappie and catching a big bag of slabs are at their best this time of year.

One thing you need to remember. You must present what the crappie wants to eat. Don’t be fooled into thinking that catching springtime crappie is like pulling fish from a bucket. The shallower flats and shoreline areas of most lakes still constitute a lot of water. Even if you find the right bank to work, it is necessary to observe the surrounding environment and make the most educated pattern presentation possible. Crappie are still a bit lethargic this time of year, so your bait must be presented at the proper depth and as close to the fish as possible, since they are not in the mood to go chasing anything around as of yet.

The spring migration to the spawning areas is gradual and the crappie will tend to migrate gradually into the shallows and back out over the course of a few months. The exact timing of their moves varies from lake to lake and even from year to year within the same lake, depending on winter and spring weather conditions. In other words, if we have an early spring with nice warm days in March, you can expect to catch crappie in the conditions described above. Crappie will begin moving from their deep main lake winter holding areas sometime very early in the spring. They use structures like channel ledges, humps and long points as staging areas, keying on any brush or stumps. Bass tend to have the same behavior during the pre-spawn period when they are starting to line up around cover that is usually adjacent to their spawning areas. They gradually move shallower and shallower and typically work toward the backs of creeks, coves and narrow lake arms.Throughout this migration pattern, both to and from their spawning grounds, crappie will move extra shallow with a string of sunny days and move deeper with each late season cold front. Regardless of water depth they almost always find rocks, brush or some kind of cover to hold around. That cover provides protection, and it attracts the minnows which a crappie likes to eat. Usually you need to have a few nice warm days strung together for the shallow water action to fully take place, but the air temperature does not have to actually warm up as much as you might think. As long as the sun shines brightly it will warm shallow areas, especially those that are surrounded by riprap or natural rocks. Water that is slightly stained and filled with wood and rocks to soak up the suns rays will heat up much quicker. When those first warm days occur, the crappie will still be holding on fairly deep structure and they will not move far just to feed. At this point, if the water temperature continues to increase, they will start chasing down their food within a few more weeks.

Typically, shallow hotspots that lie quite close to deep water will draw fish. Bridges or structures that run across major channels and the shallow ends of long points provide easy travel routes for the crappie from the depths to good shallow cover. Because areas that offer the necessary range of depth, along with good cover, and the required quality for the water to warm slightly are obviously limited in numbers, those spots can be golden in early spring. At this time crappie tend to feed more on minnows than on jigs and they won’t chase anything. Most of the best spots during this part of the season are limited in number and size, so the majority of the searching will be through different depths. A basic cork rig, with a float, split shot, No. 4 or 6 hook and live minnow, is tough to beat. Just flip the bait out and let it settle, and then experiment with different depths until you start getting bites. If you purchase a second rod stamp, you might want to try two poles at the same time at various depths. This method will tend to cut your search time down a bit.

As spring progresses and temperatures continue to warm, crappie will move to the tops of ledges and begin pushing into the creeks. They move shallow to feed more frequently, and the shallow areas they use on the warm spring days become much more widespread. Finding at least a few fish becomes somewhat less of a challenge, but they often aren’t quite as concentrated as those first wonderful days of spring. The best cover is still fairly close to deep water. Flats that are dissected by major channels and banks near the mouths of creeks will always hold a lot of crappie, especially on warm days when the fish have just begun their migration toward the spawning grounds. Warmer weather and sunrise are still the keys to finding crappie in the shallows, but such days are quickly becoming the norm instead of the exception.Floats or bobbers still come into play for finding crappie at this time of the year, but some of the best angling approaches are a little more active. The fish can be spread out, calling for searching type tactics. By now the water will have warmed enough so that the fish will chase a minnow or jig, as long as it is not moving too quickly. When I speak of a jig, I am talking about small 1 ½ to 2” plastic tube or small plastic curly tail on a jighead that is weighted. A float offers two major advantages at this time of year, whether you are fishing with jigs or minnows. It allows you to control and track depths, making it easy to identify the productive zone and keep baits in it, and allows you to move the lure or bait slowly, even stopping it along the way, which can be essential for getting crappie to strike early in the year. When the crappie are spread across shallow flats and could be holding on any of hundreds of stumps or brushpiles, provided you have a water vessel of some type, trolling comes into play.

For shallow flats, corks remain part of the equation, and setting different lines at different depths will again help identify patterns much more quickly. Keep a marker buoy handy any time you troll and toss it out any time you get more than one strike in a small area. If you find a real hotspot don’t anchor right over it especially if the water is shallow. Try to anchor a good cast away from the area so the fish won’t feel invaded or spooked.

As spring warms even more, crappie will move farther up the creeks. Now is when they will spend most of their time close to the banks or on cover along shallow flats. This would be a great time to try a lure like the Bill Lewis Rat-L-Trap in the 1/4oz and 1/8oz sizes. Because all fish don’t move at the same time, crappie will be widespread by mid-spring. The creeks will hold the most fish, by far, with concentrations well up them, but some crappie will show up around any shoreline tree, dock or riprap.

Eventually the crappie will spawn and then they will start to move back toward deeper water. The journey out is gradual and some of the early season’s patterns and hotspots will turn on once again as spring gives way to summer. Fish are much more aggressive throughout late spring as their body temperatures have risen. They are much more willing to take a bait as it is moving, and they will typically grab a jig as readily as a minnow or small baitfish imitation.

Throughout the crappie run a few things will help you catch more fish. First, the best spring spots are much more distinguishable on a map than on the water. If you can find a good topographical map, spend time studying it before your first trip and identify some potentially good areas to hit as spring progresses. Next, pay attention to the water color, as crappie will hold much shallower when the water is stained than when the water is clear. Also as I have mentioned in previous articles, stained water warms faster than clear water.

Finally, crappies of the same size tend to hang out together. If the fish that keep taking your baits are smaller than the legal limit size, move on. If you catch a nice large crappie, pay close attention to the conditions and work this pattern over and over again. This should produce great results. Springtime, with its constantly changing temperatures, brings the best opportunity for most fishermen to catch a limit of slab crappie. Using these patterns will hopefully help you catch your limit. One important item to remember is that a crappie’s mouth is paper thin and a hard hookset could severely damage the fish, and disturb their eating habits, if you are practicing catch and release. Have fun guys and gals and I truly hope you catch a bunch of crappies this season!

Wayne Byrd is a warmwater specialist and bass tournament professional who lives in Colorado. He is an active contributor to Fishin’ Secrets.

http://www.fishinsecrets.com

Saltwater fly fishing is all the rage these days. This excitement is quite understandable because there’s hardly anything more thrilling to a saltwater fly rodder than a bluefish blitz, a tailing red drum off the coast of NC, or a bonefish battle on the flats of south Florida waters.

If you are just getting started in saltwater fly-fishing, there are a few tips that will make your conversion from freshwater easier and more productive.

Get some gear just for fishing saltwater
You’re best bet is to get another fly rod and reel for your saltwater fishing adventures. Your freshwater gear is undoubtedly going to be lighter than may be necessary to deliver that big fly in a stiff offshore breeze, and you’re better off leaving your high-dollar equipment out of the punishing salt air.

Get a good 10 weight rod
There are a number of reasons you need to use heavier tackle. One is because you will need to make longer casts with larger flies in typically windy conditions. Another is because when you see that fish you need to deliver the fly IMMEDIATELY. Doing that will be considerably easier with heavier equipment.

Put your money in the rod
If you have to make a choice between spending money on rod or reel, choose rod. You can get away with a less expensive reel but you will not get the control you need with a cheap rod because it will flex more when you try to cast. The rod is more important than the reel.

Buy a reel made for fishing saltwater
You will still have to clean it after use but it will hold up better than one designed for freshwater.

Buy the best fly line you can afford
More expensive fly lines last longer and perform better than cheaper lines, it’s as simple as that. Your lines are the one place you can’t afford to pinch pennies. Also be sure to keep your lines clean and dressed with a good line dressing if you expect top performance from your lines.

Keep direct contact between your rod tip and fly.
Beginning saltwater anglers often do not realize the lighting speed at which a marine game fish is apt to strike. Every little bit of slack from our rod to the fly means a greater chance your hook-up will be unsuccessful.

Keep your rod tip pointed toward the water
Your best chance of hooking a saltwater game fish is by not lifting your rod from the water and setting the hook by stripping the line, keeping the rod pointed down before lifting it. Eliminate as much slack as possible between your rod and the fly and you will find your attempts will be more successful.

Try the shooting head system
Because of the heavy head section, a good caster can achieve a good 80 to 90 feet of distance with only one false cast. You may often find yourself in a situation where an 80 foot cast is sometimes not enough for open water fishing so a long cast with a shooting head is what is needed.

Fabulous flies
Keep in mind what your game fish eats and mimic it (most of the time). Sometimes the fish will only bite the bizarre, but usually you’re better off with flies that look like minnows, shrimp, crabs, worms, and various other small saltwater creatures.

Whether you are just getting started and testing your fly-fishing “wings” or are a veteran who simply loves the sport, give saltwater fly-fishing a try this fall or spring. You’ll be hard pressed to find a more exciting fly fishing adventure than a saltwater one.

E. A. Edwards is a free-lance writer with a variety of professional and personal interests. You will find more information about fly-fishing and fly-fishing gear on http://www.fly-fishing-guide.info

The warm, tropical waters off the Pacific coasts of Mexico to South America provide a treasure trove of opportunities for the “catch of a lifetime”. Even common food fish grow to tackle-busting size and ferocity in the teeming waters that beach Panama, Colombia and Ecuador. There’s truly something to keep every angler hookin’ and haulin’ denizens of the not-so-deep. Here are some sport favorites that’ll put a smirk on your face in no time. In the article, “Tropical Pacific Ocean Game Fish You Should Know” you met some tropical Pacific Ocean species you’re likely to encounter south of the border. These species are right there along with them south of the border too. Here are more of the “Pacific Coast Posse”. The common name is listed above the scientific name.

Jurel or Jurelillo
Caranx Caninus

Commonly sizing in at 25 to 40 cm in length and weighing in at 4 to 6 pounds, Jurel can get up to 12 or more line-busting pounds. They swim in fairly large schools near the surface over areas with sandy bottoms. They are most abundant during the months of December to March and are commonly fished for using live bait fish or lead head jigs. Crab and squid will also get you action from this dark-fleshed scrapper. In South America, the fish is often smoked or salted.

Burique or Cojinuda
Caranx Caballus

The pan-sized Burique is generally used as a bait fish. Ranging from 20 to 30 cm in length and weighing about a pound each. More abundant from May through the summer months, they can be jigged and are especially well caught at night from small boats and even canoes. They’ll hit squid, hermit crab and shrimp equally well and swim in large schools near the surface. The mouths of streams and estuaries that empty into the sea are good hot spots. Deep-fried they make a good meal on their own too. So be sure to save a couple or so to try out for yourself.

Bravo
Seriola Dorsalis

This deep-water denizen ranges from 50 to 60 cm in length and can weigh from 15 to 25 pounds. They swim in groups of 8 to 20 fish in deep waters near shore, frequenting rocky areas adjacent to sandy bottoms. Many caught during the months of June to November using live bait of small fish or squid. An excellent eating fish, its size usually requires it to be filleted. It’s good in soups and stews and the thick fillets grill nicely as well. Sharks are a natural predator of Bravo, so where there’s Bravo, there are often Bull sharks. Be careful. You might want to read the article, “A Shark Tale” online at: http://EzineArticles.com/?id=121148 You’ll see what I mean.

Good luck on your next fishing trip.

Prof Larry M. Lynch is a bi-lingual copywriter, expert author and photographer specializing in business, travel, food and education-related writing in South America. His work has appeared in Transitions Abroad, South American Explorer, Escape From America, Mexico News and Brazil magazines. He lives in Cali, Colombia, fishes the South American Pacific coast, Amazon and Orinoco River basins for exotic salt water and fresh water game and food fish. For no-obligation information on how to get original, exclusive Exotic fishing stories, fishing technique articles, fishing-action photography and one-of-a-kind content for your fishing-related newsletter, blog or website contact him today at: lynchlarrym@gmail.com for a free, action photo-packed, South American fishing adventure article.