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Panasonic Digital Cameras - The History Behind Their Cameras

Panasonic is a world-renowned consumer electronics company today. Its digital cameras have recently entered the market. In this article, we will view the story of Panasonic and some of the latest cameras which have been launched by the company in the market.

The inception of Panasonic took place in the year 1918 on a small work table in the house of Konosuke Matsushita. At that time, Matsushita invented the two-socket light fixture. This product became a success and Matsushita Electric Industrial Co. Ltd. was established.

Panasonic is the largest manufacturer of consumer electronics in the world today. The firm produces a wide array of products which cater to several needs of consumers. Its policy of achieving hundred percent customer satisfaction and providing optimal quality goods, has led Panasonic from strength to strength. In fact, the name Panasonic is synonymous with innovation, quality, performance and ease of use.

As far as digital cameras are concerned, Panasonic has got several types of digital cameras which can cater to various audiences depending on their budget and needs. In fact, Panasonic has also entered into an alliance with German camera maker, Leica to develop still digital cameras. The reason for this alliance is the fact that Panasonic is a small player in the digital market today. This alliance will help both Leica and Panasonic to take over an estimated ten percent of the digital camera market share.

Panasonic’s latest line of digital cameras consists of mainly three series. One of these is the Lumix digital camera series. The Lumix camera makes use of lenses provided by Leica. This helps in getting images which are extremely clear and bright. The Lumix is a highly advanced camera and also comes with manual control options. Its shutter interval is also less than 0.04 seconds, hence allowing the photographer to take shots quickly.

Another series of digital cameras are cheaper and smaller, known as the D-Snap digital camera series. These cameras are trendy and small. They are super-slim and come in different colors. These cameras can also record videos and play music. The D-Snap digital camera is aimed at teenagers and youngsters who are looking for something smart and trendy and which also fit into their budget.

Slowly and steadily, Panasonic is establishing a name for itself in the digital camera world. This company, which has always believed in putting the customer’s needs first, is sure to make a mark in this arena as well.

EzineArticles Expert Author Kevin Rockwell

Kevin Rockwell worked as a network TV cameraman for 20 years shooting news and sports. Now a devoted fan of digital photography and video he works to gather information, tips and news for digital camera users. Oh and he loves to shoot pictures of his kids playing sports.
http://great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html

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Photographing Birds

Many people have switched from mere bird watching to a more exciting hobby of photographing birds.The pleasure of bird watching, and the capability of preserving the visual image that brought that pleasure is possible only with photography.Therefore, bird watching and bird photography complement each other.

You don’t need to be an experienced birder to enjoy photographing birds,but you need to know your subjects - study birds and know their biology,travel patterns,habits, and behavior.

The best way to start photographing birds is to begin in your backyard with subjects that are easily accessible.To attract birds - set up a feeding station in your backyard. Choose some location with a non-distracting background. Set up a blind close to the feeder and shoot.Or,you can shoot through an open window.

Also, you may have some of your best luck with photographing birds at bird sanctuaries.

Begin photographing from a distance, and with a wider angle lens, and photograph birds in a larger context.Wide-angle lenses and short zoom lenses are useful for some of the more creative aspects of bird photography.

For bird photography you’ll want to own the absolute best quality lenses you can afford.A 400 mm lens is usually considered the minimum acceptable focal length for serious bird photography - a quality 500mm f/4 telephoto lens is ideal.

Alternatively,use extension tubes.They move the film plane further away from the lens resulting in magnification of your subject.However,extension tubes reduce the amount of light reaching the film.

Some form of camera support is required for bird photography. A tripod is recommended since you’ll use a long focal-length telephoto lens. When photographing birds from a vehicle in a game park, a good window support is useful.And,for photographing birds in flight,the shoulder stock is very helpful.

Use the slowest film possible for the conditions you are shooting under.If the light is low, go with film in the ISO 200 and above range.On bright sunny days,you can use slower films such as ISO 50.

When photographing birds, study their reactions.If they become agitated - back off.Never put their safety into question. Avoid photographing nesting birds and also be sure not to stress a bird for the sake of a photograph.

With the right equipment and a little patience, you can get impressive results photographing birds.

Felix Zhucha owns http://www.postersphotosartwork.com. Come and find popular photographs and posters.

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Taking Professional Quality Pictures

By now I’m sure you’ve used Either a digital or film camera. You’ve taken pictures and had them developed and just weren’t satisfied with the Quality. You don’t need to be a professional or have a really expensive camera to take good photos. Here are some tips that can help you take your photo’s from 0-100 in no time.

  • Master your camera (Focus, Flash, Red-Eye, Shooting Modes, etc)

  • Take more pictures (especially with Digital)
  • Mix up your photos (portrait/Landscape)
  • Center your image around your target
  • Never shoot into a source of light
  • Try to use non-distracting backgrounds
  • Get Close - Zoom with your feet not with a button
  • Take advantage of shadows and reflections
  • Try different angles
  • Pay attention to vertical/horizontal lines
  • Shoot at the highest resolution available
  • Use appropriate film for shooting scenario’s
  • Pay a little extra to have photo’s developed at a quality shop These are several tips that you can use to take higher quality pictures. It’s important to take time to learn how your camera works, and to test different shooting scenario’s (light, etc). Try some or all of the above tips and I’m sure you will satisfied with the quality of your photos.

    Feel free to reprint this article as long as you keep the following caption and author biography in tact with all hyperlinks.

    Ryan Fyfe is the owner and operator of Pictures Area. Which is a great web directory and information center for Pictures and related categories like Photography and Film.

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    Importance of Joining a Photography/Camera Club

    The reason I chose this as a topic, was I always see people that are eager to learn photography but don’t have the venue and to learn photography.

    Here are some basic reasons, I would suggest you join a club.

    1. Improve your photography.

    Joining your a club will surely improve your photography. Seeing how others shoot
    and studying their different shooting styles give you an insight to their
    photography. You will be able to compare different styles and effects that
    photographers do and choose the one that you are comfortable with.

    The contest “themes” will give you a window to the photographers mind and how he
    thinks the interpretation and execution will always be different because these are
    expressions of their own creative styles.

    2. Meet new friends that share the same passion.

    When joining a club, you will meet new people that share the same passion of
    photography and can keep this passion alive. It is hard to shoot by yourself and
    share your work if no one is interested.In joining a club, you have an audience, a
    friend and a teacher all rolled up into one.

    3. Increase your confidence.

    Showing of your photos and learning from each contest will give you the confidence
    to be able to present your style and photographic work to others. As you build your
    confidence you will also build up your own style and in turn build up your
    photographic identity to others.

    4. Explore the world together.

    Sometimes you are given the opportunity to go travel as a group and explore
    different places and share these places thru your photography. At times you are
    invited to On-the-spot shooting contests which are usually done out of town. These
    are some of the things that put your creative juices to the test. Showing the world
    thru your eyes is always a reward in itself.

    5. Humility.

    In a club you will learn humility. Not everyone will like your style and the expensive
    cameras are at par with any digital or film camera. The Photographers eye is what
    counts. It is the theme execution that counts. You will always be judged and will not
    always be on top. This is what drives you to perform better and want to outdo the
    others.

    6. Learn for Free

    The club is where you can go and learn for free by asking question on how the
    photos were taken presented or how it was shot. you can learn from other members
    that specialize in different fields like portraiture, wildlife, fashion, interior, wedding
    or food. You can share tips and tricks that you have learned and understand how
    others do their work.

    7. Stock Photos

    We have monthly meetings in our club and during those monthly meetings we have
    our contest with different Theme each month. Thru the years you will be able to
    compile Photos from different topics and from different Places and eventually have
    your own mini “stock photo library”.

    About the author: Anton Sheker is a photographer based
    in Philippines. For more home and garden articles visit his site
    online at http://www.photo.net.ph/blogalicious

    Anton Sheker is founder and member of the World Photo Directory
    http://www.worldphotodirectory.com

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    Canadas Digital Cameras, Digital Camcorders and Cheap Memory Cards Canada

    Digital SLR Camera or Digital single-lens reflex (SLR) camera is an ideal camera for professionals and amateur photographers. They usually having interchangeable lenses and are known for capturing superior quality images. They come with many advanced features like megapixels, zoom, memory cards, batteries, comfort and more. One of the great appeals of digital is the ability to shoot in “raw” format.

    We carry the following digital camera and camcorders brands. Check out:
    • Fujifilm Digital SLR Camera
    • Konica Minolta Digital SLR Camera
    • Olympus Digital SLR Camera
    • Pentax Digital SLR Camera
    • Samsung Digital SLR Camera
    • Casio Digital SLR Camera

    Buy FinePixS3Pro, Finepix S3 Pro (HS-V2 software included), Pentax: *istDS Kit w/ DA18-55 lens and more…

    Digital SLR Camera Features
    Before you buy a digital camera, you should equip yourself with its complete feature, brand and price information. Find out the best brands and compare the features. Here we have for you some useful information that will help you enhance your knowledge about digital SLR cameras.

    Lens Interchangeability
    Digital slr camera has a unique and powerful feature of lens interchangeability. This feature enhances the digital slr camera ability to shoot on a wide range. For example, using Digital slr camera with different lenses one can take wide-angle, telephoto, or close-up shots.
    We here provide excellent digital slr cameras such as canon digital slr camera Canada . Canada digital camera provides the facility of using a wide range of lenses. The shorter the focal length (mm), the wider the view will be. And, the longer the focal length, the more telescopic the picture will be. Depending upon your need, you should choose the right one from our numerous collection of Digital SLR cameras providing excellent features.

    Autofocus
    Digital slr camera has another feature called Autofocus that allows you to focus manually. It enables Canada digital camera to automatically focus. But if one wants to change the focus point you have to simply select the AF points which are in the middle and set them accordingly. To view the subject’s details like its display, colors, expressions, etc. you can view them by using viewfinder. The image output makes a Digital SLR camera better and a serious camera as compared to point-and-shoot camera.

    Exposure Compensation
    Another feature of Digital slr camera is exposure compensation. This is used to make the appearance of white objects white. This is done in case of overexposure or underexposure. By default this exposure value is adjusted automatically. This automatic setting of exposure value is known as Auto Exposure.

    Lens & Sensors
    Various types of digital slr camera are made by different combinations of small lens and large lens and small sensor and large sensors. The benefit of large sensors is that they provide superior quality image even in dim light.

    Reflex Mirror
    Digital SLR cameras have a reflex mirror that swings up when you press the shutter button. It allows light from the lens to pass through to the sensor. The picture is then recorded. Since a single lens and a reflex mirror are used, this type of camera is called “single-lens reflex” (SLR). Noise is almost always more prominent in the shadow parts of an image, and this is the first place to go looking when evaluating an image.

    Features
    Digital SLR cameras are more expensive than point-and-shoot cameras. To know the reason for this, review the advantages of digital SLR camera:

    • Easier and faster to shoot
    • Flexible, allows lens interchangeability as a feature
    • Autofocus feature enables automatic focusing
    • Excellent image quality even in situations with low light availability
    • Frame images more quickly
    • Maximum control
    • Superior quality

    We give our customers the Lowest Price Guarantee on all our products that include digicams, camcorders, memory cards, batteries and chargers, photo printers and scanners, accessories and more.

    Also refer articles on:
    • Pentax Digital SLR
    • Nikon Digital SLR
    • Minolta Digital SLR Camera
    • Fuji Digital SLR Camera
    • Advantages Of Digital SLR Cameras

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    Photography - What Makes a Photograph Great?

    Photography helps us capture memories; it allows us to
    unleash our creativity. Even the most mundane subject can
    become beautiful from the right angle. If this is what
    photography does for us, what makes the difference between
    a pro and an amateur?

    For the most part the difference can be summed up in one
    word: composition. Composition is the way in which a shot
    is made as well as the subject of the photograph.
    Composition almost wholly determines the popularity and
    influence of a photograph.

    A great photograph is a work of art; it evokes an emotion
    from the viewer. The way you portray a scene, the
    composition, is the way a viewer will experience the scene.

    To create a beautiful work of art in a photograph, it
    helps to have a plan, some emotion, or impact that you want
    the picture to have. This will affect the way you shoot the
    scene as well as the way viewers will eventually experience
    it. Share your emotions with your viewers through your
    photograph.

    Professional photographers successfully draw on feelings
    and memories that are common to everyone. Scenes
    representing childhood, lost innocence, or connection with
    nature grab the attention of viewers, reminding them of
    their own experiences. Using unique scenes to pull on
    common emotions allows a photographer to attract a wide
    variety of people who respond powerfully to the photographs.

    For a truly wonderful photograph, you must also consider
    the way the parts interrelate with the whole that you are
    trying to create. Proximity to the foreground often
    determines what is considered the most important part of
    the photograph.

    In addition, the angle from which the photograph is taken
    can greatly influence the viewer’s understanding and
    emotional reaction. A normal, everyday item shot from a new
    angle can totally readjust a viewer’s paradigm. Also,
    combining different textures enhances the overall effect
    and interest of a photograph.

    True photography is not a point-and-shoot kind of thing.
    Thought and care must be taken with each photograph, and
    the viewer’s perspective is often the most important
    consideration.

    Photography is like poetry; both the subject and the form
    determine the effect on viewers. As you search to take the
    great photographs of your life, remember that your job is
    to make viewers think, to help them see something from a
    new perspective.

    As a studio photographer, Margaret Byrkit has made a study
    of topics related to photography. She is contributing
    writer of articles for FYN Photography a
    premier resource on-line for information on photography.
    Find additional articles by Margaret at For Camera and FD Electronics

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    10 Top Tips To Consider When Purchasing A Digital Camera

    A digital camera is an electronic device to transform images into electronic information. New digital cameras are typically multifunctional and the same device can take pictures, video and audio.

    Many digital cameras can connect directly to a computer to transfer data. Early cameras used the PC serial port. USB is the most commonly used method, though some have a Firewire port or use Bluetooth. Some cameras are able to attach to computer networks wirelessly via Wi-Fi.

    Here are 10 top things to consider when looking to purchase a digital camera: -

    1. Price: This can vary from around $100 to upto $10,000 for a high end professional camera. You can buy one with good resolution and options for under $600. Ones with more manual control settings can be found for around $600-2000 dollars, usually suited to serious amateurs.
    2. Resolution: To print good quality color photos at the standard film sizes 4″x6″ or 5″x7″ you’ll need a 1-2 megapixel camera. If you are printing as large as 8″x10″ then you’re going to need a higher resolution around 2-3 megapixels.
    3. Viewfinder: Low-end digital cameras provide an optical viewfinder while more expensive ones replace the viewfinder with a LCD (Liquid Crystal Display). Look towards purchasing one with an LCD display. Kodak make digital cameras with superb displays so have a look at those.

    4. Focus: Most cameras are either fixed-focus or autofocus which is suitable for the average digital camera user. With a fixed-focus lens everything from a few feet to infinity is in focus. The only problem with this is when shooting pictures up close. Autofocus will automatically bring whatever is in the centre of the viewfinder into focus.
    5. Storage: Many cameras come with a small memory card, but if you want to take lots of pictures or footage, it is a good idea to check whether what is supplied is enough. Chances are it won’t be, so look at how much a new ‘decent’ capacity memory card etc is going to cost for that particular model.
    6. Compression: If you want the highest possible image quality, look for a camera that will let you save pictures in “CCD raw mode” which means with no compression at all.
    7. Batteries: It is important to get a camera that will accept rechargeable batteries. There are three varieties of batteries available Nickel Cadmium (NiCad), Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) and Lithium-ion (Li-ion or LiOn). A camera may accept only one or two kinds of batteries so be sure to find out what kind.
    8. Power Saving: To save battery power, use a camera that accepts an AC adaptor.
    9. Interface: If you are interested in maximum speed you should keep your eyes open for cameras and card readers that support FireWire
    10. Video Output: This can be invaluable for presentations. If you would like to do this, look for a camera with a video-output terminal. It allows you to display your pictures on a TV or projector.

    Article by David Crossley of http://www.digitalcamerasinfozone.com ( All the information you need on buying your next digital camera )

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    Pure Photographic ‘Special Effects’ Without a Computer or a Darkroom!

    The discovery of this technique was the result of an accident. The chance projection of a slide without having the screen in place resulted in a portrait appearing partly on some fabric and partly on the wallpaper. The curved fabric distorted the image and when the picture was clearly focussed the weave and texture of the materials forming a type of screen became part of the portrait. This result was sufficiently intriguing to leave the projection as it was and to study the possibilities of this occurrence.

    If this effect could be photographed, then one can photograph projected images on other textures or even on other objects. This proved to be the basic approach to gain full control of all images. Providing a completely new way of superimposing and controlling every aspect of photographs. Obviously if one can see it, one can photograph it!

    The projector however offers so many more possibilities than the darkroom enlarger to create pictures. Take any image on any film; it is just as easy to project negatives or transparencies in colour or black and white on to what ever is desired. Consider the potential when projecting an image on to; fabrics (not always flat), textures, or even on to other objects, then try bouncing the projected photograph off a reflective surface and focus it on to a screen, or have a look at what happens if a crystal is placed near to the projector lens (behind the lens as well as in front). Colour filters can be used, or parts of the image can be masked (again compare the results obtained in front, as against behind, the projector lens).

    With more than one projector it is possible to combine and superimpose with perfect control more than one image. By projecting these images, one on top of the other, and then masking away the overlapping parts of each image, that are no longer required, a totally new picture can be formed.

    These are the basic principles, which with infinite variety are used to mould, form and relate at will, all that has ever been photographed. It is in fact the projector that provides all the magic; such is the diversity that can be achieved with it. The older type of projectors are often of more use than the modern automatic ones, as it is then likely to be easier to gain access to the space behind the lens. That facility is of great advantage with these techniques - so one should look out for cheap second hand ones!

    ADDING TEXTURE

    The easiest way to begin is to experiment with the projected image, try projecting a favourite portrait on to a selection of textured surfaces, to be used as a screen. An enormous variety of textures are possible to use, they do not always need to be white, nor do they always need to be flat.

    There is likely to be an element of distortion, as it is not possible to have the camera lens in exact alignment with the projector, but do not worry about this yet, distortion can be useful as described later.

    The use of a texture in portrait work is particularly attractive, some of the beauty and character found in painted portraits is lacking in photographs. But the realism of the photograph becomes more abstract simply by adding a texture and this can bring out more expression or character than was evident before. This does not mean that one is copying paintings as totally different images are created from those ever painted, but that this abstract quality that so enriches portraits, can also apply to photographs.

    DISTORTIONS

    The only way of avoiding distortion is to project square on to the choice of screen and to rephotograph the image with a plate camera. Then one can correct the angle of view with the lens movements as used for architecture or perspective correction.

    However, more often than not, distortion can be a very interesting effect if used carefully. It can even be a very dramatic tool. Any image can easily be elongated and stretched, or squashed and made wider. It just depends on the angle of the projector, or the camera, to the screen.

    REFLECTIONS

    So far it has been shown how an image can be influenced by; the addition of a texture, the effect of distortion, the use of colour filtration, and the use of negatives or black and white films.

    Another fascinating way of manipulating a projected image is to consider reflections. The principle involved is basically to rephotograph a projected image as seen in a mirror, or bounced off a mirror. But instead of using a mirror, there are many other options. Try a piece of acetate film as this material allows one to bend or twist it, and so distort the image seen, by forming a flexible mirror.

    There are two quite different effects achievable even with the flexible mirror in a fixed position and the same image projected. The first method is to project the image on to a screen and to photograph the reflection seen. The other is to project the image into the flexible mirror, so that it bounces off it, on to the screen; it is this new image that is then to be photographed.

    There are many reflecting surfaces that can be used. They do not always need to be smooth, a highly polished old silver cigarette case, with a machine finished pattern as an over all design, has been used to advantage.

    All photographs including those techniques already described can be made into patterns rather like a kaleidoscope by the use of mirrors. By positioning mirrors at right angles to each other, with the image projected on to a choice of screen in such a way, that the reflections are repeated in the mirrors will then form a pattern that can be photographed. The possibilities of scale and size are no problem when projecting images, the biggest building in the world can easily be projected between a couple of small mirrors or on to a small object!

    CRYSTAL PATTERNS

    Spectacular patterns can be created by the use of crystals or prisms. Apart from the special effect types available for use on the camera, remember these can be used with the projector too, it is also interesting to use old crystals designed to form a chandelier.

    Experiment with different crystals placed in front of the projector lens, not always square on, and see how the image scatters according to the cut. The best results are often found to be with a fairly small image within the transparency frame.

    Quite a different pattern will be formed, by moving the crystal behind the lens. Obviously as these crystals are not optically perfect, the projected image will lose some definition, but it can still be useful as a background image.

    COLOUR, BLACK & WHITE OR NEGATIVE IMAGES

    Photography has the advantage of instantly reproducing an image in a number of ways. Just by the selection of film the image can be in black and white, colour or in either of these choices it could also be in negative form. All these can be projected!

    Negatives can be unusually beautiful in themselves and they should not just be regarded as the means of obtaining a print. The choice of projected images should not be restricted to transparencies but include film in all its forms. Black and white images positives or negatives can be projected and used. Colour can still then easily be added to the black and white projected images by the choice of screen, as well as by the introduction of colour filters.

    FILTERS

    Many filters are available for the camera, and these can be used with the projector too. But any bits of coloured cellophane can also be used with the projector. There are hundreds of colours easily available, as one only needs such small pieces.

    Even if they are not optically of use with the camera, if used between the projector condenser lens, and the film, they can influence the colour of the projected image, without any optical problems. With care it is also possible to change the colours of specific parts of the projected image.

    MAKE THE SUBJECT THE SCREEN

    It is not difficult to move on to other objects that can do more than just act as a screen. These are items that become an important part of the subject of the new photograph just as essential as the projected image.

    For example an original portrait was projected on to a clamshell, amongst other shells, and the contours of the shell influenced the projected image. With careful masking using a diffused mask behind the lens, allowed light to illuminate other parts of the scene too.

    There are a number of other objects that have been used in this way; a butterfly with a river scene, an orchid, a ball of wool and a Siamese cat, a coin, or a decaying holly leaf.

    Even a highly reflective surface can be used such as coins. The camera was directly in front of the top coin, so that the projected image from the projector was to the left of the camera. This meant that the camera lens avoided the very bright reflection. Even the edges of the pages of a book have been used.

    It can be fascinating to take your projector for a walk! Use an extension lead and just project a selection of slides on to everything in sight. By focusing on to a wide range of objects, you will be able to see what happens - expect to be surprised at some of the possibilities that will no doubt come to light!

    MASKING

    Masking is best achieved by using black card that is stiff enough to stay upright; yet is easily cut into whatever shape is required. It works well in front or behind the projector lens. If masking in front of the lens it will quickly become apparent that the nearer to the screen the mask is placed, the sharper the shadow cast. The ideal is to always use a soft edge shadow so the mask will not be very far forward of the lens.

    If it is possible to work behind the lens, then the nearer to the film, the sharper the shadows edge will be. It is then simple to perfectly blend different images when working with more than one projector.

    There have been times when instead of masking with black card a transparent opaque plastic has been preferred, this avoids a black shadow forming, especially if the second projection is not adding much in that particular area. Tracing paper has been effective for this purpose normally placed behind the lens near to the film.

    Before considering a second projector, with just one, there are now an amazing amount of possibilities that can be achieved with the projected image. However with two projectors the additional special effects are quite sensational.

    DOUBLE EXPOSURE - PROJECTOR STYLE!

    The first option with the projector is to mount two pieces of film, sandwiched in the same mount, and project the combined images on to a screen. By focusing on one of the images, the one in true focus will dominate and soften the other. Much depends on the slide carrier used, but if there is room to insert more than two mounts in to the carrier, then the more space between the two films the greater the effect of one image dominating the other. Should both images need to be in focus then the closer they are to each other the better.

    When sandwiching films in this manner it is possible to insert one or the other upside down, on its side, or the other way round. But there is little more opportunity with this technique of controlling the end result, so it is only a little bit better than double exposure as at least one can see what the result looks like first.

    TWO PROJECTORS

    This method involves using two projectors, but one has then an exciting way of blending any two previously created pictures, with far more control!

    The technique is simple; just project both images separately on to the same choice of screen. However, these images can now be positioned whichever way one might wish, one image could be much larger than the other, or by masking parts of each image, a different blend of the two pictures can be created. This is how any parts, of any picture, can be blended together and all the time one can see exactly what is to be photographed.

    Ideally, two identical projectors should be used, if possible with zoom lenses. Should this prove impractical then variations in performance of the second projector can be allowed for, by masking the brighter of the two, just in front of the lens to achieve the same brilliance from both projectors.

    To enhance the quality of the results one can achieve with this technique, there is an advantage in obtaining a screen designed for rear projection.

    IMAGE BLENDING

    Once the full potential of using two projectors is realised, there will be a need for quite different types of images, these are what are referred to as background shots, in the advertising world. A completely new stock of photographs will have to be taken, with blending potential in mind, no matter how many pictures are available from the past.

    Now each image can be simply modified: The brightness of one image, as against the other, can be controlled. By masking and shading just parts, of each image, can be blended. Colours of certain areas can be altered with filters. The position of each image, relative to each other, can be adjusted. Or even the size, of one image as against the other, can easily be altered. One of the images could be distorted, reflected, or be changed in to a pattern by the use of a crystal. The possibilities are quite staggering!

    Best of all, the combined images are there to be seen all the time, until the desired result is formed. There is no need to rely on guesswork, as so many other special effects seem to demand, with these methods so no film really should ever be wasted.

    With two projectors it becomes possible to mix film effects together in a way not possible before. It is so easy to blend negative images with transparencies, in colour or black and white. Instead of transparencies in both projectors, one of them could be projecting a black and white negative or a colour negative just as easily.

    PLATE 3

    ‘Spirit of Spring’ is a well-known award winning study that won much acclaim for the author. This transparency of a portrait was projected over; a second projected colour negative image of a red tulip. A variation of this concept is plate 59 (Poetic portfolio) where another profile of Susan was blended with a colour negative of the centre of a tulip. (See this and other photos in the author’s ‘Poetic portfolio’ link below).

    MORE PROJECTORS

    There are no reasons why more than two images should not be projected all at once, providing the projectors are available.

    There have been a number of occasions when four projectors were in use together. However three have been the most that have normally been used, with the fourth one occasionally; simply projecting the author’s signature in to the scene.

    REAR PROJECTION

    There are some valuable advantages in having a rear projection screen especially when owning more than one projector. The first advantage that comes to mind, after the obvious one of avoiding distortion, with at least one of the images, is the opportunity to add a light coloured background when photographing projected images on to other objects.

    Should the rear projection screen simply be used to provide a background scene, often expected to be in a softer focus, an expensive screen is then not needed. Even tracing paper will do!

    INSPIRED ACCIDENTS

    Hoping that readers having reached this far will agree that the possibilities described, offer photographers working in colour so much more than simply recording reality. Trusting readers will also agree that this form of photography really justifies recognition in the art world, as it has certain qualities that are quite unlike those of any other media.

    This has been published with the hope that photographers will not just create strange pictures or gimmickry, but produce works of true artistic merit.

    The most satisfying time spent is without doubt in the creation of the work. Frequently regardless of the medium used, if an artist is truthful, the end result obtained is not always exactly as initially conceived.

    Often the author has decided on a theme, or it could be just a thought about a pattern or composition that exists in the mind, in an abstract way, as yet unexpressed. Perhaps the last portrait taken inspires the desire to do more with it. Whilst considering and projecting certain images, to blend with such a portrait, something can suddenly be seen that fires the imagination.

    At other times an idea occurs and a clearly defined image forms in the mind. However, whilst trying to create this picture, it is not so unusual that one strays across a certain amount of accidental inspiration. This can be the chance blending of two images in a way never thought of before, that looks just too good to ignore! The best thing to do then is to be prepared to change direction, and pursue the new study, rather than the original concept. The first attempted creation can always be tried again later on.

    The excitement and pleasure one feels when inspired in this way is hard to describe. So even if one starts with just a vague concept, it is worth spending some time experimenting. Think of it as being the stage where the artist is selecting and mixing the paints on his palette, still unsure of what he might paint, but just feeling the need to make a start. Whilst thinking of the various possibilities, surprising relationships can develop, that might well become the basis of the final picture. It is only really by actually making a start that you create the opportunity for something exciting to happen.

    John N. Cohen (now retired) was an international top award winning photographer that created new techniques of ’special effects’ without any darkroom or computer!

    “…regarded as one of Britain’s most original photographers.” The Times

    “To Cohen, the impossible in colour merely takes a little longer…” Photography Year Book

    To see a more detailed version of this article with all the Plates please visit: - http://www.jncohen.net/Photo_magic/index.htm

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    Photography 101 Part 1

    Photography 101


    Part One


    Equipment: camera, meter, flash, tripod


    This article is a simplified photography course directed at new photographers out there who want to know where to start.


    If you really want to learn photography the first thing you need is a good affordable and reliable camera. It must, and I repeat must, be able to shoot in fully manual and fully auto focus modes. (This leaves out any digital cameras on the market right now, sorry.) To really learn photography you must understand the equipment. You’ll need to learn how manipulating the shutter speed, aperture, and focus will have a dramatic effect on your photos. Meters, if you have a camera that can work in a fully manual mode it should have an internal meter suitable for what you will be doing. Tripod, you’re going to need one whether it’s portrait work or landscapes you’ll need one eventually. Luckily you don’t have to spend a lot here. Just something lightweight and durable. Flash, you can buy a separate camera mounted flash, which is great if you can afford it. Consider what kind of photography that you will be doing though. If you’re going to do mostly nature and landscape, you may only need the fill flash that comes with most cameras today. If you plan on doing portraiture alone you will want to consider a camera mounted flash that has an adjustable angle.


    Film, film speed to be exact. Slower speeds (25 to 400) are intended for portraiture and landscape photography. Faster speeds (600 and above) are intended for actions shots and photojournalism. So first you need to know what you going out to photograph and make sure that you have the appropriate film for the job.


    Now that you have the camera loaded with film consider shutter speed. Do you want to blur motion, or freeze it? If there is no motion at all what shutter speed do you need to expose the scene with natural light. From 1/60th and down to the bulb setting will blur most motion. For example if you want to blur the water in a waterfall, a setting of 1/30th should work. (You’ll need a tripod though.) 1/125th is a normal setting for most shots. On many cameras the 125th setting is marked in a different color to make it obvious. If you want to freeze action you’ll need to start with 1/500th and work up from there. The faster the motion the faster the shutter speed needed to stop motion. Many cameras go up to 1/2000th of a second. If you’re trying to use natural light alone in a scene you will want to determine the aperture first and then see what shutter speed you need to properly expose the scene for available light. (Keep in mind sometimes there isn’t enough light.)


    Aperture, these are the set of numbers on your lens closest to the body of the camera. They can go from 1.8 to 22, and they are referred to as F-stops. These numbers determine how much light reaches the film inside of your camera. Most internal meters will blink on the appropriate aperture for the shutter speed that you’ve set, or the speed you’ve set will blink if your F-stop is correct for the speed. Both the F-stop and shutter speed can be changed to expose the scene correctly. Consider that the faster the shutter speed the more light will be needed to expose the scene correctly. This makes logical sense if you think about it. If the shutter isn’t open as long, fast shutter speed, then there is less light able to make it to the film and so the scene must be brighter to expose correctly. To learn, bracket your shots. Take the first shot at the aperture suggested by your meter, move one stop up, take a photo, one down, take another photo.


    Flash, I personally like shooting with natural light whenever possible and at most I use a fill flash. But if you’re going to do portrait work then most of the time you may be indoors and you will need a flash sometimes. For the amateur the fill flash units that are on the top of most of today’s cameras are wonderful for basic work. You will have to read your manual on your particular flash unit to learn what it can and can’t do. This is where the camera that is fully manual and fully auto is great for the amateur. You can usually set it so that the camera will meter and set the flash output accordingly and then you still can control the shutter speed and aperture.


    This week’s assignment: Have several rolls of 400 speed film, find a subject that you can work with preferably something that won’t move, and shoot one roll of film. Shoot some of the roll in the morning, afternoon, and evening. Bracket every shot, take notes on time of day and light conditions, and what your settings (aperture) were for each frame, keep the film speed the same for the entire roll. Have the film developed and examine the photos. You should be able to see a difference in each frame. You’ll need to repeat this procedure until you feel that you understand the relationship between shutter speed and aperture, and every camera and meter has it’s own quirks and differences, you’re camera will act differently than someone else’s. This way you will learn you own particular camera as well. Once you have a sense of how aperture works you won’t need to bracket every shot you take, you may only need to do it in cases where you want to be extra safe on exposing the subject correctly.


    If you have some specific questions please visit my Photography Forum at: http://kellypaalphotography.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/index.php

    Copyright 2004 Kelly Paal


    Kelly Paal is a Freelance Nature and Landscape Photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. Recently she started her own business Kelly Paal Photography (www.kellypaalphotography.com). She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design.

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    CCTV Camera Tip: Apply Simple Common Sense when Picking CCTV Cameras and Lenses

    Get a good face shot: Use Higher quality cameras at entry areas.

    Doors, gates and other entry areas need a good quality, high resolution camera to record a good ‘face shot.’ The video from this camera should be considered a highly valuable since it can be used as evidence in identifying a person in a court of law.

    Wide Angle Cameras for large surveillance areas

    Once you can get a good shot of a persons face, you should use a wider angle camera lens for the interior surveillance spaces of the building. Using color cameras inside your building is a good idea because you can readily identify a person by the clothes they are wearing. Used in conjunction with the face shot at the entry point, you have an excellent record of all people and activities in your surveillance areas.

    Consider the following when choosing a CCTV camera:

    1. Sketch out a Floor Plan: Put in all camera locations.
    Consider the distance to your surveillance zone: Are you 5 feet or 15 feet away from your surveillance target area? It is best to locate your camera as close to the surveillance area first, then choose how much zoom you need. Do you need 4mm, 8mm or 12mm lens?

    2. Field of view or area of surveillance: Take photos of areas you want to cover from the proposed camera locations.
    What lens you need depends what you want to see and how far away and how wide a viewing area. Wide angle and fisheye lenses are available.

    3. Resolution: Do you want to capture a persons face or a car license plate? Each camera location will determine which lenses would maximize your surveillance potential. Do you need 50mm lens or standard 8mm?

    4. Vandalism potential: Will your camera be subject to damage? Damage resistant cameras are available.

    5. Lighting: Is the space well lit or dimly lit. Are the lights turned off at night? Do you want to monitor the area with the lights turned off? Do you need infrared cctv cameras or low light cameras?

    6. Budget: Just like any technology, the more you spend, the better the system you get. Keep in mind a low cost camera is better than no camera at all.

    About CCTV Cameras: Closed circuit television also known as CCTV is the industry standard in surveillance cameras. CCTV can be a single network of cameras or multiple networks of camera linked together via switches, internet or wide area computer technology. CCTV Video data is analog but can be converted to digital via CCTV Digital Video Recorders. Once the video data is digital it can be managed just like any other computer data and can be stored automatically on computers and network storage devices.

    For more information on cctv cameras visit Camera Security Now or call toll free: 877-422-1907

    John Beagle is president of Xponex Web and Media Services and can be reached at 513-422-1907×222. Xponex.com/

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